Varanasi β also known as Kashi, "the City of Light," and formerly as Benares β is among the oldest continuously inhabited cities on Earth, with settlement estimated to stretch back at least three thousand years and Hindu tradition holding it was founded by the god Shiva himself, placing its true age beyond history's reach entirely. Along its riverfront, more than eighty stone ghats descend to the Ganges, and every one of them is, in some sense, a threshold between the living world and the next.
Varanasi's identity is inseparable from the belief in Kashi Labh Mukti β the conviction that dying within the city's sacred boundary grants moksha, liberation from samsara, the endless cycle of death and rebirth that governs Hindu cosmology. Elderly pilgrims travel to Varanasi specifically to spend their final days there, and hospices exist in the city for exactly this purpose, making it perhaps the only major city in the world that a significant number of its visitors arrive in expressly to die.
The ghats β broad stone steps leading down to the Ganges β are the city's defining architecture. Most are used for bathing, prayer and ritual, but two, Manikarnika Ghat and Harishchandra Ghat, are dedicated cremation grounds where funeral pyres burn continuously, day and night, year-round. At Manikarnika, tradition holds that a sacred flame has burned without interruption for centuries, used to light every cremation fire on that ghat.
At the heart of the city stands the Kashi Vishwanath Temple, dedicated to Shiva and counted among the twelve Jyotirlingas β the most sacred Shiva shrines in Hinduism β while each evening at Dashashwamedh Ghat, the Ganga Aarti ceremony draws large crowds to watch priests perform a synchronised fire ritual honouring the river goddess Ganga, flames swept in patterns against the darkening sky above the water.
Benares is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put together.
β Mark Twain, Following the Equator, 1897Varanasi is frequently described in tourism and popular writing as the "oldest continuously inhabited city in the world," a claim that is genuinely difficult to verify and is contested by comparable claims made for cities including Jericho, Damascus, and Aleppo β all of which have their own long, if differently documented, occupation histories. What can be said with more confidence is that Varanasi has been a significant urban and religious centre for roughly three thousand years, referenced in early Buddhist texts and the epics of Hindu tradition alike, making it unambiguously one of the oldest living cities on the planet, if not provably the oldest.
The city survived periods of Mughal rule during which some temples, including an earlier Kashi Vishwanath structure, were destroyed and later rebuilt β a layered history of destruction and restoration that mirrors much of Indian religious architecture, and one the modern temple complex reflects in its relatively recent (18th-century) construction atop a much older sacred site.
Legend and record, side by side: Varanasi's mythic founding by Shiva and its documented three-thousand-year urban history are not competing claims to be resolved β they represent two different registers, sacred and historical, in which the city's antiquity is understood and experienced by the millions who visit it each year.